After three and a half years at the house’s helm, David Koma is entering a new chapter at Mugler, one that began to unfold during his Fall 2017 show. “When I started, it was essentially about translating the feelings of the Mugler house into my own handwriting,” the designer explained at a Resort 2018 showroom appointment in New York. “Now, I feel like I’m more comfortable with the archive, like I’ve found my own way to translate archive pieces that I love.”

Indeed, Spring 2017 was the most “Mugler” collection Koma had made up until that point, focusing on those strong ’80s silhouettes for which founding designer Thierry Mugler was known, as well as on the Mugler star. For Resort, Koma pushed it even further, mining the archive for pieces to which he could respectfully nod, but bring into the modern age.

Related: Fashion Show | Resort 2018

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Courtesy of Mugler